Where I Go to Cool Down in Panama: A Quick Getaway in Sorá
How a quick, $50-a-night trip to Sorá gave me misty trails, pine forests, and a break from the beach.
I live in the beach town of Coronado… every day I literally open my eyes to a scene that looks like something out of Hawaii… the sparkling sapphire of the tropical Pacific, a vibrant green canopy of trees… it’s idyllic. But even those of us who live in paradise crave some variety now and then (First World problems, indeed, ha)
That’s why, for my birthday, I chose to spend a couple days in the cool Chame mountains.
The vast gated Altos del Maria community in Sorá is as safe as it gets and conveniently located just 1.5 hours away by car from Panama City and 45 minutes from Coronado. But… when I’m there, the cool weather and pine-laden slopes make me feel like I’ve traveled halfway across the globe.
I wanted to enjoy the mountain climate and lush green surroundings, so I searched Airbnb until I found a house with the perfect terrace. I drove up with two friends and we paid $300 in total for two nights, which worked out to $50 each per night. There was no WiFi but our cell phones got good reception for data and chats. The little house had a kitchen (and there were no restaurants in the area to tempt us), so we brought food and made our own meals. Add a few bottles of wine and a couple gallons of gas and this is one of the cheapest birthday trips I’ve ever taken.
During the days we hiked multiple senderos or trails around Sorá. All the ones we encountered had beautifully maintained stone steps that led to pretty miradors where we could take in the views. You can walk a bit and then turn back or get in a serious workout. Trails are signposted and easy to find. You can wander about looking for signs or stop in at the visitor center and use your smartphone to take pictures of the huge map.
Evenings we had wine and cheese on the terrace. The house itself was small, with a steep little staircase to the bedrooms upstairs. But it was immaculate, and our main goal was to spend as much time outdoors as possible, so the large terrace was perfect.
Since rainy season got an early start this year, there were a lot of the light-seeking bugs locals call cocorrones (there’s a fun word to say in Spanish, don’t forget to roll those double Rs). They look like big brown beetles and they’re harmless, though they’ll fly right at your face if you’re in the light.
That may sound very off-putting, but bugs are one of the prices you pay for a life in the sunny tropics. Granted, I didn’t see nearly as many when I was living in the city. Still, my friends and I found that we got used to seeing lots of different types of bugs after a day in the countryside. After dark we kept the sliding doors shut so critters wouldn’t get in. A few did manage to slip past us, but they’re easy to catch and take back outside. Locals say the bugs don’t like smoke, so we happily fired up the grill.
We sipped our wine, enjoying the warmth and light play of the barbecue’s glowing coals. The terrace was surrounded by tall trees, about midway up the tree line. Whether we looked down or up, all we saw were trees. With the cool weather and the mist blowing in from time to time, it was like being in a completely different—and magical—world. Switzerland down the road.
Best of all, I didn’t have to spend hundreds of dollars on a plane ticket, go through airport security…nothing onerous. When you’re living in coastal Panama, an inexpensive little trip to Sorá is the perfect choice for a change of climate and scenery.
To get to Sorá: From downtown Panama City take the Cinta Costera westbound, keeping along the water as it curves around Casco Viejo into Chorrillo and to the Bridge of the Americas. After crossing the bridge you’ll be on the PanAmerican Highway. There’s just one tricky fork early on, where you want to bear left to avoid the old autopista. Stay on the highway till you get to Bejuco (about 46 miles), where you’ll see the turnoff for Sorá. Once you turn north into the mountains it’s about another 15 miles to the gates. If you’re renting a house in the Altos del Maria development, the owner will ask you for your name, ID number, and details on the car you’ll be driving—this is for the security guards at the gate. Some of the roads in Sorá are very steep and could be scary for nervous drivers. That said, I have managed fine with a Hyundai Accent—you don’t necessarily need an SUV, but your car does need to be in good condition… transmission, brakes, tires…
— Jess Ramesch, IL Panama Editor
Editor’s Note: If you’re curious about what it really costs to live in Panama, how to get a visa, or the best places to settle down, check out these resources:
Dive in and see if a quiet, cool mountain escape — or sunny coast life — might be your next adventure.