The Day We Learned to Love Food Shopping (Thanks to Gozo)
How a charming Mediterranean island transformed our weekly errands into something we look forward to.
It was our first trip to the street market. We thought the fish hawker had made a mistake. “Two euros,” he said while handing me a bag with a half kilo of red snapper fillets. “How much?” I asked. “Two euros ($2.33), madame,” he answered. We gave him a two-euro coin and continued on through the open-air market.
The morning shopping continued with one surprise after another: a loaf of sourdough Gozatin bread—$.50, a large head of cauliflower—$1.25, luscious tomatoes—$1.50 per kilo, fragrant basil—$0.25, cantaloupe—$1, and a half kilo of strawberries—$2. All the produce was harvested from small family farms within a mile or two of the market. The quality and flavor were the best we’d ever had.
We Dreaded Food Shopping Before Moving to Gozo
In the US, supermarket shopping was our least favorite chore. Trips to busy, crowded big-box stores stressed us and clobbered our budget. Searching for parking, dodging shopping carts, wonky self-checkout counters, and unhappy customers and employees. YUCK!
On Gozo, food shopping is a slow-paced, daily chore and often a social event. The costs of life’s necessities and some of its luxuries are so budget-friendly that we love to shop and can easily balance our food budget.
Shopping For Food On Gozo
Street Market—Our favorite place to shop for food is the weekly street market in the village square. Local farmers sell fruit and vegetables harvested that morning. The local baker brings his mobile store and sells bread, pastries, and sweets. The fishmonger plays his melodic horn to announce his arrival. We always smile at one another when we hear his tune, Oh! Susanna.
Based on the vendors’ offerings, we plan menus for the next couple of days on the fly. Yesterday we found red and yellow peppers, cucumbers, tomatoes (one of Gozo’s best crops), spring onions, broccoli, fresh garlic, local olives, olive oil, and vinegar.
All were included in what we call our ‘Summer Mediterranean Salad’. The veggies are sliced and mixed with chilled couscous, then dressed with vinaigrette. We prepare enough with leftovers in mind, then for dinner, we add prawns or poached chicken breast. It’s perfect with a glass of chilled Girgentina, a white wine grape native to Malta.
Village Food Shops—Our village has three food shops. Our favorite is Azzopardi, a family-run shop that sells the things you need for the pantry, kitchen, and household. Johnny runs the deli counter. He stocks cheese, deli meats, olives, and pickled delights. The produce counter has local and Sicilian varieties. Some things are from Johnny’s farm. His potatoes are so tasty, we want them at every meal.
Village Baker—Once you’ve tasted Gozo’s sourdough bread, you’ll never buy that mass-produced stuff again. Fresh bread is a part of every Gozatin meal, whether it’s toast for breakfast, a sandwich for lunch, or spread with tomato conserva at dinner.
Every village has at least one bakery. Our village has three. They bake bread, pastries, sweets, and pizzas. Pizza is a central part of the Mediterranean diet. We think of it as fast food when we aren’t in the mood to cook.
Village Butcher—Butcher shops are an outing back in time. Chicken, pork, beef, and rabbit are cut and placed in the glass case. If you don’t see what you want, ask. The butcher will get it from the back or order it for you.
Our diet is heavily plant-based, but we have animal protein once or twice weekly. The locally raised chickens are tasty and succulent, not to mention budget-friendly. A kilo (2.20 lbs) of boneless, skinless chicken breasts costs about $6.50.
Hawkers—Mobile food vendors are a long-standing tradition. Trucks outfitted to display and sell edibles roam the island throughout the day, sounding their lyrical horns. Each lorry (truck) has a different tune that announces its arrival. Folks come out of their homes with cash and a bag in hand to make their selection.
Each hawker has a specialty. Some sell fish, others fruit and vegetables. There is a bakery truck and one that sells bottled water and other beverages. Many have a shelf on their vehicle with a few pantry items like canned tomatoes, olives, spices, pickled broad beans, and canned sardines.
Supermarkets—The island has large, Western-style supermarkets, but we rarely shop in those stores. Just walking in reminds us of the hectic days back in California.
Instead, we love joining our friends and neighbors for coffee during the street market. We are welcomed when we enter the local food shops, butchers, and bakers, and spend time exchanging the latest news. The fruit and veg hawker knows us. He’ll save some of his strawberries for Kevin when they are in season.
We love food shopping on Gozo; it fills our pantry, satisfies our hunger, and warms our hearts.
— Mary Charlebois & Kevin Scanlon
Thinking About a Mediterranean Retirement?
When we left California’s redwood coast for the sunlit shores of Gozo, Malta, we weren’t chasing a fantasy — we were building a life that balanced beauty, affordability, and adventure. Here, our Social Security stretches further than we ever imagined. We rent a sea-view apartment for just $750 a month, explore Europe for the cost of a nice dinner back home, and fill our days with warm friendships, fresh Mediterranean food, and a slower, richer pace of life.
If you’ve ever wondered what it would be like to swap long commutes and high costs for village festivals, turquoise waters, and 3,000 hours of sunshine a year, our story shows it’s possible. We’ve found our perfect place — and you could, too.
Click below to learn why we retired to Malta after 25 years in California.