Finding Home in Phnom Penh: From Rustic Lofts to Rooftop Pools
Exploring Cambodia’s capital reveals why modern condos often outshine romantic fixer-uppers.
In June, I visited Phnom Penh, the capital city of Cambodia, and wanted to look into what kind of apartments were available for rent there. It’s a frenetic city of about three million people, so finding the right place in the right neighborhood is essential.
My friend Tom O’Sullivan from realestate.com.kh sent me on a fact-finding mission with two of his best young agents, Khim and Rith. I had this romantic idea that I wanted to be in a cool loft apartment with a view of the Mekong River. The Riverside neighborhood is lined with old French-colonial era buildings, and I had seen photos of some that had been expertly renovated.
Khim and Rith looked at each other apprehensively, but agreed to show me a riverside loft for rent. The neighborhoods down by the river are “rustic” to say the least. There’s a mish-mosh of facades, tuk-tuks half-hazardly parked on the street, and an eclectic mix of businesses from massage joints to mom-and-pop restaurants.
The loft we looked at was up a winding, narrow staircase and behind two locked wire mesh doors. It was like something out of a Jason Bourne movie. The room looked like a junk store with a hodgepodge of dusty decor and crusty old furniture, and it smelled like my grandmother’s mildewed basement. There was only one natural light source from French doors that opened onto a balcony about one foot wide overlooking the street. The kitchen was gross, and the stairs leading up to the bedroom loft were so rickety I didn’t want to chance a trip up them.
Khim explained that many people buy these apartments, renovate them to a high standard, and then move in. He said, “Not many renovated lofts are for rent as they have a hard time competing with new high-rise buildings in more upscale neighborhoods with lots of amenities.”
Our next stop was an apartment in the BKK1 neighborhood, which perfectly illustrated his point. The Richardson Serviced Apartments are in a top-notch condo building with sparkling white marble floors, icy cold air conditioning, and a smiling, friendly staff. The one-bedroom apartment I saw was spacious and comfortable, with a full kitchen and equipped like a ready-to-move-in Airbnb.
Even more impressive was the rooftop saltwater pool with ridiculous city view, and possibly the most well-equipped gym I’ve ever seen in a condo building. For $600 a month, I could easily settle into the modern Phnom Penh lifestyle.
Shopping for places to live online can only take you so far, especially in a city like Phnom Penh. Once you get your boots on the ground, it becomes easier to find what you are looking for. I’d shrug off the romantic ideas and go for the comfort.
— Bart Walters, IL Thailand Correspondent
Editor’s note: Curious about what it’s really like to live in Cambodia today? The White Mansion is just one chapter in Phnom Penh’s rich story. If you’d like to see the bigger picture, check out IL correspondent Bart’s comprehensive report, Back to the Future in Southeast Asia.
In this in-depth feature, Bart explores:
Why Phnom Penh is both deeply historical and rapidly modernizing
The cost of living and lifestyle expats can expect today
Cambodia’s growing role as a destination for adventurous retirees and remote workers
First-hand insights from Bart’s own travels and conversations on the ground