Sunshine, Seafood, and Simplicity in Southern Portugal
This is what freedom looks like—through one expat’s eyes.
Golden sunshine glistened through my window, nudging me to crawl out of bed and embrace another day in Tavira. The clickity clack of a commuter train across the road brought a smile to my face and a reminder that I, the woman who never traveled abroad, actually lives in Europe! Long gone are the days when I was the one who had to commute to work like those people on the train, but today instead, I can choose to do anything or nothing at all.
As I made my way to the living room, I stopped to do some people watching out my window at the busy café across the way. A flurry of patrons sits sipping their morning espresso and savoring some mouthwatering pastries.
Spoiled as I am, my husband has prepared my morning brew just the way I like it. Through the open window a peaceful breeze caresses my skin as I hear Portuguese chatter below our apartment. From the restaurant below, a bevy of vendors come and go, leaving behind daily rations for the hungry crowds to come.
After hours of lollygagging around our home we head outside, wave a friendly hello to the restaurant owner who graciously accepts our packages when we are not at home, and wander on down the cobbled road.
Our postal carrier, a thin woman with long dark hair dressed in a grey and red uniform whizzes by on a bicycle, and calls a friendly greeting. As we pass through a tiny park four elderly women sit nestled together on a bench and offer us a smile and a nod. The Portuguese people are so friendly and some of the nicest we have ever met.
Our morning meanderings take us up and over a picturesque bridge that offers a panoramic view of the city overlooking the Gilão River. We stop at the top for a second to admire the view and catch our breath. A ferry boat filled with beach-going tourists on route to the Island of Tavira passes below. Local fishermen in tiny boats navigate their way down the river and head out to sea. As we savor the moment, we realize how contented and grateful we are, for having the courage to take the plunge into a better life abroad.
Just up the road in front of a large mercado we see our friends waiting for us at a table in a café. A diverse group from Belgium, Holland, Poland, England, along with one other American and us. Since the purpose of our social is to practice our Portuguese conversation skills, something we do on a regular basis, we greet each other with, "bom dias."
As the waitress approaches our table she smiles and recites off our usual fare of coffees, water and tea because we frequent the café so often. Over the next few hours, we chat in our less-than-perfect Portuguese about various topics. A heated discussion about artificial intelligence leads to a more jovial topic of a local wine festival. Finally, as usual we revert to English and realize we have babbled on for way too long. Clyde and I stop at the nearby mercado to pick up some fresh fruit and vegetables before taking our 20-minute stroll back home.
After a normal vegetarian lunch of beans, vegetables, nuts, seeds, and fruit we hop in our car and drive to Aldi, our favorite go-to store for quick shopping. There we pick up warm bread and pastries, fresh-squeezed orange juice, and other goods to get us through the week—all for under $20.
In the afternoon we walk over to the Senior Academy to join a two-hour class on the history and culture of Portugal. This weekly class gives us the opportunity listen to our teacher passionately talk about his country, increasing our knowledge and appreciation of our new home. After the first hour we break for tea, cookies and to chat with other students from around the world.
Later in the evening we walk to a nearby hotel to attend an expat meetup at their rooftop lounge. We mingle with a mix of 30 to 40 expats, from the US, Canada, the UK, Europe, Asia, Africa and more. Copious amounts of wine and cocktails are enjoyed around the room to add to the laughter and atmosphere. And when wine costs a mere $4.60 per glass, it makes sense to indulge.
Quite often someone recognizes me from the videos I have made for International Living as well as my articles. New expats have tons of questions about settling into life in Portugal, while others are navigating through the bureaucracy, looking for accommodation, need to find an English-speaking doctor, or just want to chat. Everyone needs a bit of handholding and guidance when starting out in a new country.
Back home, we snuggle on the sofa and relax to watch a movie on Netflix without a care in the world—basking in the glow of another fun, relaxing day in Tavira.
We love our lives in Portugal, the friends we have made, and our healthy, affordable lifestyle.
Editor’s Note: Curious what life really looks like in Tavira, Portugal? In this short video, expat Terry Coles shares her journey from Texas to the Algarve—and how she’s living her dream life for under $2,500 a month. From rising U.S. costs to peaceful Portuguese mornings, it’s a candid, inspiring glimpse into why so many are choosing southern Portugal.