How to Shop Like a Local at the Aix-en-Provence Markets
From lavender sachets to artisan cheese and postcard-perfect pastries—here’s how to savor every moment at Aix’s iconic farmers market.
Known as the Paris of the South, Aix-en-Provence is one of the top-visited destinations in this captivating, vine-covered corner of France. If you’ve slotted in a visit to Aix during a south-of-France tour, you won’t be disappointed. The town has been attracting travelers since the Roman era. In fact, the name “Aix” signifies “water,” as thermal springs were discovered on the spot, a tourism draw that helped put the small countryside town (a 30-minute drive from the seaside in Marseille) on the map.
Today, modern-era travelers can still take advantage of the springs’ curative properties at the luxurious Aquabella spa and retreat on the far end of the main roadway—Cours Mirabeau. This plane-tree-lined thoroughfare, thought by many to be one of the most elegant boulevards in all of Europe, is the first stop for many visitors on their way to experience another local wonder: the farmers’ market on Place Richelme. If you’ve seen Provençal photos of red tablecloths overflowing with trios of bell peppers, purple-striped eggplants, perfectly round cauliflowers, and bushels of parsley stacked haphazardly near buckets of sunflowers, chances are they were snapped at this outdoor market.
These images are some of the most iconic in the region, where a coffee (those tight little espresso numbers) and croissant on Place Richelme is just the start of a favorite French pastime: the daily market stroll. While some may come to just flâner (amble aimlessly, for pleasure), many others have loftier objectives in mind. The French meal starts and ends right here.
Beyond the fruit and veg, French home cooks are seeking to complement their creative meals with fresh bread (organic baguettes and whole grain loaves find space near Charley’s Café), leafy herbs, charcuterie, and of course, cheese.
Not to mention the ubiquitous lavender stand selling fancy sachets wrapped in local textile prints—vibrant striped patterns of yellow and blue, or subdued violets with fleur-de-lys etchings. One of Provence’s signature symbols, the colorful “pochettes” are perfect little satchels to slide into your carry-on for gifts or souvenirs.
The best approach to obtain the full market experience is to arrive early, even in the off-season. Some years, December can be just as busy as July, with visitors not only taking in the farmers market, but also popping by the comfy Christmas chalets which line Cours Mirabeau. There is ample parking, where I always set up shop, in the large underground garage near the Aix-en-Provence tourist office, which itself is a wealth of information.
With locally guided tours, including the history of the town’s hôtels particuliers (stately mansions) and its network of charming fountains, the tourist office also has information on Aix’s famous confectionery industry, namely the almond-flour, candied-melon cookie called le calisson, and Provence’s well-known artisanal chocolate business. Don’t miss a visit to Roy René and Léonard Parli to sample the moist cookies, and to Puyricard Chocolatier for their divine ganaches and creamy chocolats au lait (milk chocolates).
After a stop at the tourist office, cross the street to lovely Cours Mirabeau—you can’t miss it. Aix’s most photographed, and arguably most beautiful, fountain, La Fontaine de la Rotonde, is smack-dab at its base… monumental in size, imposing and elegant all at the same time.
I like to stop for a quick coffee at La Rotonde, a chic brasserie in dark, muted browns and rich teal-greens. The lunch menu is a bit pricey, but you can enjoy some great people-watching and the comforting swish of the fountain for the price of an espresso (about $2.60).
Continue along Cours Mirabeau toward Place Richelme, or make your way via one of the back streets to the leafy square. You’ll pass Aix’s famous honey-toned stone buildings, great for a few postcard-worthy snaps as the light cascades off the different churches and monuments.
There are a lot of nice shopping spots in the back alleys… and many swoon-worthy French bakeries to boot. If you can resist temptation, one of Aix’s best pastry shops, Maison Weibel, is two steps from the market. (The other is Maison Béchard on Cours Mirabeau. My husband swears they have the best pains au chocolat in the south.)
Once at the market, there’s really no rush at all. Wander, flâner, take as many photos as the mood grabs you (the market sellers are used to being semi-celebrities), and perhaps finish on the corner of Place Richelme at Le Petit Bistro—wooden tables along the cobblestones spill right into the market.
— Tuula Rampont, IL France Correspondent